Po’boys, tacos, and a (famous) dive bar

Day three of this food lovers tour of New Orleans started with a classic: beignets and chicory coffee. While we’re not big on sweets, we had to bring Ron and Kristan to the famous Café du Monde to see what all the hoopla is about. And to be fair, that first bite into a hot, crispy beignet covered with a prodigious amount of powdered sugar reminded me why this place is famous. Their café au lait is really good, too. 

Another walking tour, this time in the Garden District, filled out the morning. A quick tour of Lafayette #1, plus a lot of famous homes (Sandra Bullock, John Goodman, Anne Rice). 

Naturally, all that walking worked up our appetites, so we couldn’t pass up a chance to try Parasol’s for po’boys, right nearby. This place is regularly on lists of “best po’boys”, a reputation well-deserved. Thank goodness we split them, because they’re huge. Rob and I shared a roast beef (which was dripping in delicious gravy), Ron and Kristan went with a pulled pork, which came dressed with coleslaw and creole mustard rather than the usual lettuce-tomato-mayo. Messy but well worth it. 

We walked off those sandwiches by heading to The Bulldog, a great beer bar on Magazine Street. The selection is huge and they have a lovely shaded courtyard to sit outside. 

Then, we really walked off lunch, and the beer, with a trek to the CBD (central business district). Our sights were set on Johnny Sánchez, where we heard they had a happy hour with $2 tacos and half price drinks. (See, splitting those po’boys was a plan…)

Everything was absolutely delicious, including the queso fundido and their house salsa. 

Well fed, we were in need of some music, so we headed back to the Marigny to Buffa’s, an excellent spot for live music. We caught the second two sets of Arsène DeLay, who we had seen the other night at dba, where she did a couple of songs during a break in  John Boutté’s set. We also stayed for a few songs from Antoine Diel, before moving on to Frenchmen to catch Aurora Nealand and the Royal Roses at the Maison. 

Another food classic we had to introduce Ron and Kristan to was the muffaletta, so we planned to check that off on day four. 

Plenty of places make them, but my favorite is at Napoleon House, where it’s warmed up so the bread gets a little crispy, the cheese melts ever so slightly, and the flavors of the cold cuts and olive salad pop. YUM. A plate of read beans & rice rounded out our lunch. And of course, you can’t go to Napoleon House without ordering a Pimm’s Cup. 

It was a beautiful day so we decided a ferry ride was in order. We caught the boat over to Algiers and walked to a famous spot, the Old Point Bar. Many movies have been filmed in this dive bar, which they proudly display with all the celebrity photos lining the walls.

Back in the Quarter, we checked off another food must-have by stopping at Acme for some boiled crawfish and chargrilled oysters. 

Up next, a food recommendation from our B&B host: crabmeat cheesecake at the Palace Café. All I can say is WOW. Go there,  get this, be happy. 

Our evening plan had been to catch the Rebirth Brass Band show at the Maple Leaf, so we took an Uber uptown to Cooter Brown, a beer bar with a huge and varied selection. However, given that the show didn’t start until 11(ish), we decided instead to head back to Frenchmen for an earlier show. Dinosaurchestra and Jazz Vipers were at dba, and with a window seat for people watching we were all set. 

I’m not sure how we’re going to top any of this for our last day together in New Orleans, but we’ll certainly try…

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